Panama, The Canal and Beyond

Day Four – 10 Nov 2014

Weather: 50/50

Well, I got two wake up calls this morning and the first one was 15 minutes early. So, I was up at 5:45 when I didn’t need to be up until 7. I got up to check the sunrise but the sun was too bright on the horizon.

I took my time getting my luggage ready and sorting some photos before heading down to breakfast. I’m far enough from the lobby to not want to return for my bag so I take everything. There’s another omelet station here and a great assortment of sides and breads.

After breakfast, I went up to the lobby and someone said there was a toucan outside and I managed to get a couple pics before it got scared away.

We got aboard the bus for our visit to the Embera village. Despite the fact that we could see the village from the observation tower yesterday, it’s over an hour’s drive to get to the river bank to take the canoes. Gustavo wasn’t sure if we would be delayed en route. Today is a holiday celebrating the first attempt to gain independence from Spain.

On the way, Gustavo put on an episode of Build it Bigger which chronicles the construction of the third lock and our immersion into all things Canal was continued. It was a very informative episode and showed how they managed to remove the highest hill in the area of the Pedro Miguel locks without once delaying a single ship. The Canal was never closed during the construction. Instead of ships waiting for demolition, the demolition waited for a break between ships. In fact, the Canal has only been closed three times in its history. Once due to a landslide in 1915 (or thereabouts) which led to the expanded cuts. Once during the invasion of Panama in 1989 (for about 6 hours) and again in 2010 after 7 days of continuous rain.

We get to the river bank by 9:30 and a couple people say they don’t want to go in the canoe, but it turns out they have no choice. No one is permitted to remain with the bus in the park. So, if you have problem with traveling by canoe, arrange to do something else at the resort.

Or just lay in the hammock on the balcony like I’m doing right now as I type this.

The canoe ride was 30 minutes long. About 8-10 people could fit in a canoe and an outboard motor was used (no paddles). We all have life vests on. I found my seat a little cramped and my hip isn’t happy with me. (Which is why I’m in the hammock…trying to make up for it).

We arrive at the village and the locals are there to help us off. A small group are above playing instruments.

It’s a short walk to the top and we gather in a hut for a talk.

Oh, on the way in, it was hard not to miss the phone booth sitting in the middle of the village.

During the talk, Gustavo translated. He said the Embrea people originally came from eastern Panama and two families established this village almost 40 years ago. The oldest person in the village is 73.

They came with 8 people and now 108 live in the village. There are 20 houses, each containing one family.

He said they believe they cannot start to build a hut until the full moon, otherwise the building will be infested with termites. They use the royal palm leave for the roof but it’s currently only available to the east and they have to travel up to 5 hours to buy the leaves for 50 cents each.

Apparently, inflation means the leaves will soon cost 75 cents and the Embrea have decided to grow their own palm trees and expect to be self-sufficient in 5 years.

They used to wear the bark of the Spiny tree but realized that taking the bark kills the tree and before long, they would cause problems associated with deforestation. So, a company in Japan was asked to produce a fabric for them and the Japanese thought – well, it’s for an indigenous group, so they made bright coloured fabric with trees and animals on them. The Embrea weren’t picky and were happy with what they got. But in terms of meaning, the designs are a Japanese creation. The men wear a simpler fabric that only costs $1 a yard.

The women’s bright coloured fabric can go for $20 a yard and can’t be bought in stores.

The women also wear coins around their necks as well as antique silver.

The men do most of the carving work using rosewood – which is very heavy as well as the tagua nut which is the vegetable ivory. They can only carve the nut in dry season when it is hard.

While the men carve, the women make baskets and take care of all the domestic duties. Some of the baskets are pieces of art and can take months to complete. One basket was $130. A simpler plate shaped one was $30.

As they finished their talk, they brought in lunch which was fish and fried plantain served in a leaf. I asked for the non-fish selection and got a leaf full of plantain which was delicious. There was also fruit offered. Some said the fish was delicious. After lunch, we walked around and took pictures. We were free to photograph anything. One kid offered his services to hold a tripod.

We also had a chance to check out the handicrafts. Gustavo already warned us not to give money to the children as they would learn to beg. Instead, he said that if we wanted to support them to buy the handicrafts. I got a necklace with a dolphin carving on it for $8.

We were then treated to some dancing which is performed by the women only. The men played the instruments. It was cute to watch the two youngest girls try to keep up with the rest of the women.

They did a few dances, including one with “volunteers” from the group.

By 2 pm, it was time to head out. A light rain was falling as we headed back to the bus and as we were going down river. The trip back only took about 20 minutes. I was near the front of the canoe so that I could stretch my legs forward and my hips were much happier.

On the way back to the resort, Gustavo gave us the timings for Tuesday. The flight is not until 11 but traffic may be heavy after the long weekend and so we will leave at 7:30. That means a 5:30 wakeup call.

I think I’ll let this one alone. I can always go out and look for that toucan if I have nothing to do after breakfast.

Gustavo said we would be visiting the horse farm. Someone misheard him and thought he said whore farm.

Well, it is a stud farm after all.

After Gustavo caught his breath, he said his accent can sometimes be misunderstood – like when he says sloth but pronounces the ‘th’ like a t. (And the o is more like a u).

Back at the resort, we were given up to 30 minutes to get our luggage and bring it back down to the bus so that our bus driver could leave for David. I got mine down, checked for the Toucan and then went back to my room to lay on the hammock while I type this up.

At 7, I went down to the lobby and boarded a truck for a short game drive around the resort looking for sloth, caymen and anything else that moves. The guide had a spotlight and not long after we started, he spotted a sloth high up in the tree. This photo was the best I could manage.

Later, we spotted a caymen swimming in a river next to the road.